Khorog

Khorog with a population of 28,000 is the capital of the GBAO and served an important buffer role in the "Great Game between the UK & Russia in the 19th Century. It is also sadly one of Tajikistan's poorest areas having to rely almost entirely on the Aga Khan foundation for its existence - it really is in the middle of nowhere !

Khorog is set against a prominent Valley cleft at the confluence of 2 major rivers the Pamir and Pyanj. I'd seen this image prior to the trip when i stumbled on some youtube footage of a group of cyclists being hotel bound in 2012 when Government Fores launched an attack on a local warlord and his supporting militants after the death some days before of a top Tajik army General !

Despite the heavy fighting the cyclists made it safely out of town during a conveniently called ceasefire ! They would have been cycling like the possessed !

Thankfully with no evidence of any ongoing hostility it was time after two bumpy days on the road to get to work in the morning heat and put our well traveled & partly disassembled bikes back together !

While most succeeded without difficulty I needed the help of our tour leader and Master in Bike Mechanics Stuart, after my bike presented with a bent wheel and rotor that would have done a 3rd hand Chinese Rickshaw proud !

After labouring away for well over an hour to straighten and tru the wheel Stuart had my Karakoram MTB steed finally back in a rideable condition. I swore that i'd take better note in future of how my soft covered bag / bike is stored !

With bikes assembled most of the group took off for some high altitude training in the nearby hills (Khorog is at 2,200 meters). The hills were used as a vantage point by a Russian gunship helicopter during the 2012 conflict !

Kiwi Pete and I predictably took the easier route and set off around town to find a local cafe where we indulged in some local food and a pretty damned good Capucchino. We did though wonder briefly whether the activity was going to help us acclimatise for the coming days but decided in true Anazc spirit "what the hell" !!

The afternoon was spent "chilling"! Most of the guys lounged around the Hotels car park (as you do in Tajikistan) with warm beers in hand while discussing their thoughts on UK football, likely bowel habits and the days cycling to come.

The adventure finally begins !