Wednesday, August 22, 2018

Back in Bishkek

After a full day of travel first by bus and then by plane we arrived in the modern looking capital of Krygzistan Bishkek to collectively celebrate our journey and to plan for our respective departures

Ian and Stuart co-hosted an awards night including a best dressed award won by Kiwi Pete in his stunning sequin ensemble !

It was time to say goodbye ! 

What an amazing journey with such incredible people ! Thank you so much Ian and Stuart for your hard work and to our wonderful Tajik support crew "You were the best" !

As for Tajikistan - what a stunning place, what a bloody hard ride and what amazingly friendly people !

Roll on to our next adventure !


Downtown Bishkek 


Fancy dress time at our farewell dinner !
Kiwi Pete and Mike look the part !


Our incredible support team !








Tuesday, August 21, 2018

Day 13 - Sary Tash Kyrgyzstan - 1300 meters - 94 kms


It was our final day of cycling as we left a shimmering Lake Kara Kul behind taking a series of punishing short climbs on to a no mans land plateau between Tajikistan & Kyrgyzstan for a road side morning tea !

Shortly after our break on an exposed section of road Stuart became the tours first road casualty dismounting in a less than recommended manner - thankfully when dusted Stuart was able to confirm that he was injury free !

Finally we climbed into a strong headwind to our 2nd to last checkpoint where we waited patiently with a few Mongol Car rally participants to be finally let through enabling us to crossing our final pass the Kyzl - Art at 4200 metres !

The descent that followed into Kyrgyzstan provided for an incredibly changed landscape - almost European like with towering green hills and snow capped mountain monoliths

After our final checkpoint we cycled 25 kms to Sary Tash quite literally the hardest kms on the whole trip as we punched into an incredibly strong headwind that had us falling over the finish line ! We had completed a stunning 800+km journey through one of the least visited countries on the planet !

Some celebratory back slaps were followed by a few cold beers and an urgent queue for a warm shower - or in my case drinking while queuing!

With the hot water tank emptied we headed over to a nearby Yurt for dinner and speeches thanking our wonderful support crew for their efforts. 5 of our group generously ended up donating their bikes in a great gesture.

After a fabulous trip all that remains now is to pack the bikes and head on to Bishkek !

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Entering Kyrgyzstan

Farewell speeches and bike gifts ! 

Ciao Mario !

Christine on descent into Krygyzstan  

No mans land !

Lunch short of our final checkpoint !

Monday, August 20, 2018

Day 12 - Kara Kul - (3,800 metres) - 62 kms

It was a tough night with sub zero temperatures, the high altitude and a rock hard ground making deep sleep almost impossible !

After a breakfast of eggs and dry bread it was time for our signature climb !

It might have been only 3 kms long but on dirt and at 8+% to the top of the 4,616 Al Baital Pass it was brutal!

Apart from poor Kiwi Pete who was still suffering, everyone made it to the the summit and posed for numerous pics against a backdrop of picturesque multi coloured mountains.

The descent and flat ride to morning tea were murderous ! It was impossible to not ride on rutts, in fact even the rutts were rutted !  ! This pain filled journey went for over 15kms !

Thankfully after morning tea conditions improved as we followed the old Chinese border.

Rounding a corner Lake Kara Kul appeared as if by magic - it's deep blue colour stunningly set against the snow capped mountain range

Despite the remote location our accommodation for the evening was packed meaning a fair wait to use the bathing facilities and outdoor toilet - not ideal but par for the course !

With hordes of barking dogs I figure tonight was not going to be great for sleeping either !


Night time at Ak Baital camp ! 

Tajiky brother in arms - top of Ak Baital Pass ! 


Descending from the pass

Lake Kara Kul formed by a meteorite some 10 million years ago !

Kiwi Pete near Lake Kara Kul

Ian and Martein lead the way ! 

Stunning views !  

Group shot on top of the pass

Christine successfully on top 

Big John on top of the pass 

Simon taking a breather 

Stunning backdrop heading to Lake Kara Kul 

Stuart on the move 

. F

Sunday, August 19, 2018

Day 11 - Ak Baital Pass (4,400 metres) - 70kms

Leaving Murghab (our less than luxurious town) we found ourselves amazingly followed by a stray dog for 25kms through remote scenery to morning tea ! Apparently the dog had also followed a touring cyclist the day before!

Gentle climbing followed on vast open plains alongside the old Chinese border where some of the group posed beside the former border fence until our tour guide Daniyar explained that some border areas might still have old land mines present !!!

After a nice soup for lunch it was a punishing cycle into a strong headwind to our campsite on a rocky bed at the foot of the imposing Ak Baital Pass - this time there was no icy river to wash in, in fact there was no nearby water at all !!

We had an early dinner to help acclimatise and prepare for tomorrows ascent and also used the time to take in the star filled sky in this amazingly remote area !

Lunch stop 

Gerard battling away !

At camp at the foot of Ak Baital 



Stuart gives the bikes a look over !  

Jacoline and Martein 

Exiting Murghab ! 

Ak Baital Camp ! 

Crossing the Old Border into China !  

Ian - "look Mum no hands" !  

Leaving Murghab 




Saturday, August 18, 2018

Day 9 /10 - Murghab - (3600 metres) - 80kms

We said goodbye to our Yurt accommodation and took a fairly pleasant 30km ride to the Niezatash Pass at 4,300 metres where we had morning tea on the main road not worried about the danger of being hit by passing cars as we'd seen so few over the past few days !

The descent after the pass was sublime ! 30kms of stunning free pedalling as we wound our way past  incredibly stark scenery while trying to be mindful of the speed and the imminent threat that some of the "black hole" sized potholes provided !

After passing a military checkpoint it was all stations direct to our Hotel in Murghab ! At 3,600 meters Murghab is the highest town in Tajikistan and a former Russian military outpost !

After 3 days of washing in a river it was beautiful just to have access to running water ! Soup and Potatoes dominated dinner while the 50 metre distance to the local village shop allowed those with a thirst to replenish their diminishing beer supplies !

Rest Day

While some of the gang took to wandering the streets of this "Container" style town it was R&R for others (self included) after 5 pretty damned tough days of riding .

My room mate Kiwi Pet was still suffering from the altitude and joined a growing list of others including Ian that were coming down with associated illnesses - it was not looking good

The evening meal was accompanied by a beer and when the power allowed even a live Man Utd soccer match !


Lunch Time ! 

Ian, Jacoline & Martein approaching a military checkpoint !  

Jurgen taking 5 ! 

John is down for the count ! 

The Murghab local market - containers !   

Simon at out Murghab accommodation !  



Friday, August 17, 2018

Day 8 - Bash Gumbez (3,850 metres) - 82 km's


If we hadn't experienced the sense of remoteness then this day well and truly made up for it as we headed inland across an array of sand covered surfaces against a beautifully eroded landscape !

Already tired we stopped after only 13kms to take in a unique local Geysir. Our likeable Italian Mario put on a virtuoso performance by sitting on the Geysir outlet in an obvious attempt to become Italy's first self propelled astronaut !

23 kms later we ended back on the Pamir Hwy again & this time thankfully for good. At nearby  Alichur we took lunch while trying hard to stay awake after the mornings draining cycling !

After lunch it was pure bliss ! The 28kms on potholed bitumen was almost "Orgamsic" !

The nights accommodation was a choice between Yurting or Camping while the nearby ice cold stream provided for our nightly 30 second bathing ritual !

Another huge day !



Beautiful scenery 

Our Yurt accommodation !

Cycling into Camp !

A welcome lunch ! 

Some tough cross country cycling ! 

Friendly locals at our Yurt accommodation ! 

Sandy Roads !

Local Geysir !

Annie set for a big day !

Ian heading cross country !

Neil taking in the surrounds ! 

Back in Bishkek

After a full day of travel first by bus and then by plane we arrived in the modern looking capital of Krygzistan Bishkek to collectively cel...